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Mickey Carnell on Lady Slipper Orchid Culture 2017

By Lia Andrews. I have had beginner’s luck with many orchids: dendrobiums, cattleyas, phalaenopsis, and even vandaceous orchids, but my two paphiopedilums are barely hanging on. They’re alive but they are not happy, and they certainly have not bloomed. I thought maybe these orchids were not for me. I was surprised to hear Mickey say that when he first started growing orchids, he had immediate success with slipper orchids. He believes that slipper orchids are actually the easiest orchids for those who already have a green thumb with houseplants to start with because their care is not so different.

Slipper orchids are not epiphytes or lithophytes, like most orchids grown in collections like cattleyas and dendrobiums. (Epiphytes get their moisture and nutrients from the air, rain, and occasional debris. Lithophytes grow on rock faces, again without soil.) Slipper orchids are terrestrial and semi-terrestrial plants often found by streams and lakes in most parts of the world.  They are in the subfamily Cypripedioideae of orchids. The genera include cypripediums, mexipediums, selenipediums, phragmipediums and paphiopedilums. Most species in this subfamily are endangered in the wild due to habitat loss.

They share some common characteristics. They tend to like their roots wet, but not soggy. They cannot be mericloned, only divided. Seed crosses can vary widely (similar to the variety of genetic variations that can occur when you cross two humans). Their flowers are long lasting.

Water – The biggest take away I got from the presentation was the idea of “hydration” rather than watering. This is a key concept with this group. They need time to soak and fill up. Slippers do not like to fully dry out.

How to Hydrate a Slipper Orchid:

  1. Get a larger pot with no drainage hole.
  2. Fill with water and a little food.
  3. Place your potted slipper inside to soak for at least 15 min – 2 hours.

Water every other day or every 4th day depending on the time of year.

Media  – Mickey has grown slippers in all types of media: moss, bark, and various mixes. Just pay attention to moisture and freshness of the media. You will have to adjust watering according to the media. Remember that the more food and water, the faster organic media breaks down. (This is why many growers favor using rocks, sponge rock, etc. in their media to prolong the time before they have to repot). When it does, it becomes acidic and inhospitable to the orchids. The same media can be used for all slippers, the difference is that phragmipediums typically prefer to remain moist, while paphopedilums require a slight drying out between waterings.

Potting – All orchids like a fresh mix. Repot slipper orchids any time you think the media has started to break down to keep the growing media fresh. Like most orchids, they like to be underpotted. Repotting just means replacing the media, it does not necessarily mean going with a larger pot. Like other orchids, slippers prefer to be underpotted. Also, be sure to open the roots a bit so that at least some of the roots are touching the edge of the pot. Slipper roots are a little more delicate than other orchids. Cut away where the roots have become papery. Note: If you have an ailing slipper, cut away dead roots and pot in a tight wad of high quality sphagnum moss. Let the moss dry thoroughly before fully hydrating again.

Note: The wetter the media, the more prone to heat and cold damage.

Food – Mickey prefers high nitrate fertilizer (no urea). A 3:1:2 ratio will grow any plant under the sun. Nitrogen queues the plant to grow. Bloom fertilizer lacks nitrogen and allows the plant to flower. But remember, blooms happen on mature plants.

Pests – Slippers are bothered by few pests aside from occasional mealy bugs.

Cypripedium reginae

Cypripedium reginae

CYPRIPEDIUMS
From the Latin Cypris = “Kypris or Aphrodite (Venus)”, Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “Aphrodite’s slipper”.
These are the lady slipper orchids I remember as a kid growing in the forests of upstate New York. They are cold weather orchids widespread in the northern U.S., Canada, Europe, Russia, and China. Mickey did not review their culture in detail as they do not tolerate the heat of the southern U.S. Species include: Cypripedium reginae, formosanum, and gutatum. More pictures of species and hybrids.

Mexipedium xerophyticum

Mexipedium xerophyticum

MEXIPEDIUMS
From Mexi = Mexico, Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “Mexican slipper”.

The genera consists of a single species, Mexipedium xerophyticum, found in Oaxaca, Mexico. It grows in limestone crevices.

Selenipedium aequinoctiale

Selenipedium aequinoctiale

SELENIPEDIUMS
From the Greek Selen = “moon”, Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “moon slipper”.

The natural habitat for the genera is concentrated in the Amazon and thus is at great risk due to deforestation. An attempt was made to use some species as a vanilla substitute, but their difficulty in cultivation made their use inefficient. Species include: Selenipedium aequinoctiale (mimicry orchid), vanillocarpum, and chica.

P. Court Jester

P. Court Jester

PHRAGMIPEDIUMS
From the Greek Phragma = “division”, Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “divided slipper”.

They are native to Latin America and many are endangered in the wild. Species include: Phragmipedium pearcei, besseae, and kovachii and popular hybrids like P. “Sorcerer’s Apprentice”. More pictures of species.

Phragmipediums are known amongst orchid growers as “difficult” plants so I was surprised to hear Mickey say P. Court Jester was the first orchid he ever got to flower. In Mickey’s opinion, phrags are the easiest slipper orchid to bloom. They can bloom sequentially for 6 months to 1 ½ years.

Phrags are very different from paphiopedilums. Of all the slippers, phrags are the most terrestrial. All slippers like their roots “wet but not soggy”, but phrags have the highest tolerance for wetness. You can get away with growing most phrags in standing water. P. bessiae and its hybrids are sensitive to wet feet, but most phrags enjoy being moist all the time. Many growers keep their potted phrags in a saucer of water. Otherwise, you want to check the potting mixture for moisture like you would any potted plant. As soon as it begins to dry out, hydrate the phrag thoroughly; typically every other day or so.

They may not be sensitive to the quantity but they are picky on quality. Every successful phrag grower I have spoken to swears that rain water is the secret. Their famous sensitivity to water quality is likely due to their dependence on mycorrhizal fungi (which perish in the chemical-laden water supply most of us have access to). This is the opinion of expert phragmipedium grower, Gary Murza.

Paph. (Via Victoria x Spring Free) x spicerianum grown by Barb Murza

Paph. (Via Victoria x Spring Free) x spicerianum grown by Barb Murza

PAPHIOPEDILUMS
From Paphos = a city in Cyprus, a place sacred to Aphrodite (Venus), Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “Venus slipper”.

These are native to Southeast Asia and the South Pacific. Paphiopedilums are widely hybridized and common in orchid collections. Many adapt well to the southern U.S. The bulk of Mickey’s talk focused on this genera. He brought in examples of each subgenus for us to see and touch.

General Culture:

Media – 2 parts coconut or bark : 1 part charcoal : 1 part perlite. Mickey does not like lava rock because they accumulate salts. Paphs and phrags can be grown in the same media. Paphs really don’t like acid media. Be sure to repot when the media begins to break down.

Water – Never let them dry out completely. Use room temperature water. Do not use softened water. Potting media should stay moist but not wet. Most paphs like to be watered every other day. Paphs do not like water on their leaves (in South Florida. In California you would not need to worry about this). If you get water on their leaf axis it can easily cause fungus and rot. To remedy this you can grow in moss to limit the frequency of watering and/or hydrate them by soaking just the roots in water rather than spraying with a hose or watering from overhead.

Food – Paphs like to eat frequently. You can feed a dilute amount at every watering. Simply add a little food to the water and allow roots to soak. Flush with plain water every 4th watering. Alternately, feed weakly weekly, flushing with plain water 4-6 weeks.

Light – 800-1,000 foot candles. 70% shade (shadow east – too much light). Leaves should feel cool to the touch. Most paphs like early morning sun, though they thrive in all day filtered light. If they are in a place where the phalaenopsis have dark green leaves, it is too shady. As with all plants, the higher the light exposure, the more food and water required for the plant to keep up.

Humidity – 70% humidity is ideal. Use a humidity tray, fine mist several times a day, or use a humidifier.

Temperature range – 55°-85° is the ideal temperature range for most paphs.

Air Movement – moist, vigorous air movement reduces chance of disease.

New growth on a healthy plant will mature and bloom within 9 months.

At tonight’s meeting, the winning orchid was Paph. (Via Victoria x Spring Free) x spicerianum, expertly grown by Barb Murza. Barb says this Paph. spicerianum crosses are reliable bloomers and easy to grow.

Subgenus: Barbatum/Sigmatopetalum
Species include: Paph. venustum, wardii, purpuratum, argus, appletonianum,barbatum, callosum, lawrenceanum, mastersianum, sukhakulii, superbiens, venustum, viniferum and wolterianum.

Widespread through Southern China, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Known as maudiae-type paphs due to their mottled leaves. Warm monsoon (monsoon summer/dry cool winter) growers ideally suited to South Florida. Prefer shade (500-1500 foot-candles).

Subgenus: Paphiopedilum/Insigne
Species include: Paph. coccineum, hirsutissimum, spicerianum, barbigerum. boxalii, charlesworthii, druryi, exul, fairrieanum, gratrixianum, helenae, henryanum, herman, insigne, and trigrinum.

Native to Southen China, Bhutan, Laos, Burma, and Thailand. Most are cool monsoon growers (require cooler autumn temperatures to bloom). Distinguished by green, strap-shaped leaves. Bloom in winter. Prefer bright light (high phalaenopsis, low cattleya light).

Subgenus: Brachypetalum
Species include: Paph. bellatulum, longipetalum, niveum, bellatulum, concolor, godefroyae, xgreyi, niveum and thaianum.

Native to tropical China, Vietnam, Burma, Laos, and Thailand. Distinguished by their tessellated and succulent, water-filled leaves. They do not need as much water as other paphs. According to Mickey they come to flower quickly. They like more food and particularly do not like water on their leaf axis. These slippers can tolerate temperatures into the 40’s.  They enjoy the monsoon summer/dry cool winter seasons of South Florida. Cool dry winter + calcium supplements for summer blooming. Shade. Good air movement.

Subgenus: Parvisepalum
Species include: Paph. armeniacum,  delenatii,  malipoense,  micranthum, vietnamense, emersonii, hangianum, jackii, and malipoense.

Native to tropical China and Vietnam. They are distinguished by tessellated thin leaves and flowers with large, inflated pouches. Cool dry winter + calcium supplements for summer blooming. Shade. Good air movement.

Strap-Leaf Multiflorals – Distinguished by their ability to sustain multiple blooms. They like good air flow. Must have a 6-8 week cool period (50-60°F) to bloom. Mickey considers them difficult to kill and they are fast growers. The leaves should be an apple green color for optimal flowering. This subgroup prefers more light; most tolerating cattleya-level light (2000-3000 ft-candles). They prefer to grow warmer and shouldn’t be exposed to temperatures below 50°-55°. They enjoy the monsoon summer/dry winter seasons of South Florida.

Subgenus: Cochlopetalum
Species include: Paph. glaucophyllum, liemianum, moquetteanum, primulinum, victoria-mariae and victoria-regina (syn. chamberlainianum).

Native to Indonesia. Sequential bloomer. Mickey states that cochlopetalums are great for growers in Southwest Florida. Again, they are warm weather monsoon growers.

Subgenus: Coryopetalum
Species include: Paph. adductum, gigantifolium, intaniae, kolopakingii, ooii, philippinense, platyphyllum, praestans (syn. glanduliferum), randsii, rothschildianum, sanderianum, stonei and supardii.

Simultaneous bloomer.

Subgenus: Pardalopetalum/Polyantha
Species include: Paph. parishii, stonei, lowii, dianthum, haynaldianum,  lynniae,  and richardianum.

Primarily found in Indonesia, the Philippines, and Papua New Guinea. Simultaneous bloomer. These enjoy cooler, drier weather.

DO PAPHIOPEDILUMS LIKE LIME?
For a mixed collection use: balanced fertilizer, 40ppm calcium, 20-30ppm magnesium, and pH 6.2-6.6.
For Calcareous Species add a top dressing of crushed oyster shell, pelletized limestone, or dolomitic limestone chunks.
Calcareous Species include: armeniacum, malipoense, microanthum, emersonii, bellatulum, concolor, godefroyae, niveum, philippinense, sanderianum, stonei, glanduliferum, wilhelminae, supardii, dianthum, glaucophyllum, liemianum, primulinium, Victoria-regime, hirsuitissmum, charlesworthii, insigne, barbigerum, exul, spicerianum, fairrieanum.

MISCELLANEOUS ORCHID TIPS

  • Oncidiums growing too dark in winter won’t bloom in Spring. This is why many growers can only get their oncidiums to bloom once a year in the Fall.
  • Ring stakes allow light to hit new growth and increase blooming in cattleyas.
  • Bare root orchids love to be watered daily, and by watered Mickey means fully hydrated of course, to mimic the nearly constant misting many of them receive in their natural habitats. Professional growers typically mist their bare root orchids for 45 min twice daily and feed twice a week. Hobbyists can set up a sprinkler on a timer for a similar effect. For those of us with other responsibilities Mickey recommends at least once a week fully hydrating your orchids, either soaking in water or watering them 3 times a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner). This particularly applies to vandas. Palm tree vandas are food and water-deprived vandas.

REFERENCE
Blue Pagoda

http://slipperorchids.info/paphdatasheets/parvisepalum/

https://personal.uwaterloo.ca/jerry/orchids/cnotes/paph2.html

http://www.cloudsorchids.com/culture/slippers.htm

http://slipperorchids.info/paphspecies/index.html

https://www.lookingafterorchids.com/useful-articles/lady-slipper-orchid-care/

http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27013

By |2019-03-26T14:29:31+00:00January 29th, 2017|Plants|Comments Off on Mickey Carnell on Lady Slipper Orchid Culture 2017

Mickey Carnell on Lady Slipper Orchid Culture

By Lia Andrews. I have had beginner’s luck with many orchids: dendrobiums, cattleyas, phalaenopsis, and even vandaceous orchids, but my two paphiopedilums are barely hanging on. They’re alive but they are not happy, and they certainly have not bloomed. I thought maybe these orchids were not for me. I was surprised to hear Mickey say that when he first started growing orchids, he had immediate success with slipper orchids. He believes that slipper orchids are actually the easiest orchids for those who already have a green thumb with houseplants to start with because their care is not so different.

Slipper orchids are not epiphytes or lithophytes, like most orchids grown in collections like cattleyas and dendrobiums. (Epiphytes get their moisture and nutrients from the air, rain, and occasional debris. Lithophytes grow on rock faces, again without soil.) Slipper orchids are terrestrial and semi-terrestrial plants often found by streams and lakes in most parts of the world.  They are in the subfamily Cypripedioideae of orchids. The genera include cypripediums, mexipediums, selenipediums, phragmipediums and paphiopedilums. Most species in this subfamily are endangered in the wild due to habitat loss.

They share some common characteristics. They tend to like their roots wet, but not soggy. They cannot be mericloned, only divided. Seed crosses can vary widely (similar to the variety of genetic variations that can occur when you cross two humans). Their flowers are long lasting.

Water – The biggest take away I got from the presentation was the idea of “hydration” rather than watering. This is a key concept with this group. They need time to soak and fill up. Slippers do not like to fully dry out.

How to Hydrate a Slipper Orchid:

  1. Get a larger pot with no drainage hole.
  2. Fill with water and a little food.
  3. Place your potted slipper inside to soak for at least 15 min – 2 hours.

Water every other day or every 4th day depending on the time of year.

Media  – Mickey has grown slippers in all types of media: moss, bark, and various mixes. Just pay attention to moisture and freshness of the media. You will have to adjust watering according to the media. Remember that the more food and water, the faster organic media breaks down. (This is why many growers favor using rocks, sponge rock, etc. in their media to prolong the time before they have to repot). When it does, it becomes acidic and inhospitable to the orchids. The same media can be used for all slippers, the difference is that phragmipediums typically prefer to remain moist, while paphopedilums require a slight drying out between waterings.

Potting – All orchids like a fresh mix. Repot slipper orchids any time you think the media has started to break down to keep the growing media fresh. Like most orchids, they like to be underpotted. Repotting just means replacing the media, it does not necessarily mean going with a larger pot. Like other orchids, slippers prefer to be underpotted. Also, be sure to open the roots a bit so that at least some of the roots are touching the edge of the pot. Slipper roots are a little more delicate than other orchids. Cut away where the roots have become papery. Note: If you have an ailing slipper, cut away dead roots and pot in a tight wad of high quality sphagnum moss. Let the moss dry thoroughly before fully hydrating again.

Note: The wetter the media, the more prone to heat and cold damage.

Food – Mickey prefers high nitrate fertilizer (no urea). A 3:1:2 ratio will grow any plant under the sun. Nitrogen queues the plant to grow. Bloom fertilizer lacks nitrogen and allows the plant to flower. But remember, blooms happen on mature plants.

Pests – Slippers are bothered by few pests aside from occasional mealy bugs.

Cypripedium reginae

Cypripedium reginae

CYPRIPEDIUMS
From the Latin Cypris = “Kypris or Aphrodite (Venus)”, Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “Aphrodite’s slipper”.
These are the lady slipper orchids I remember as a kid growing in the forests of upstate New York. They are cold weather orchids widespread in the northern U.S., Canada, Europe, Russia, and China. Mickey did not review their culture in detail as they do not tolerate the heat of the southern U.S. Species include: Cypripedium reginae, formosanum, and gutatum. More pictures of species and hybrids.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mexipedium xerophyticum

Mexipedium xerophyticum

MEXIPEDIUMS
From Mexi = Mexico, Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “Mexican slipper”.

The genera consists of a single species, Mexipedium xerophyticum, found in Oaxaca, Mexico. It grows in limestone crevices.

 

 

 

 

Selenipedium aequinoctiale

Selenipedium aequinoctiale

SELENIPEDIUMS
From the Greek Selen = “moon”, Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “moon slipper”.

The natural habitat for the genera is concentrated in the Amazon and thus is at great risk due to deforestation. An attempt was made to use some species as a vanilla substitute, but their difficulty in cultivation made their use inefficient. Species include: Selenipedium aequinoctiale (mimicry orchid), vanillocarpum, and chica.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

P. Court Jester

P. Court Jester

PHRAGMIPEDIUMS
From the Greek Phragma = “division”, Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “divided slipper”.

They are native to Latin America and many are endangered in the wild. Species include: Phragmipedium pearcei, besseae, and kovachii and popular hybrids like P. “Sorcerer’s Apprentice”. More pictures of species.

Phragmipediums are known amongst orchid growers as “difficult” plants so I was surprised to hear Mickey say P. Court Jester was the first orchid he ever got to flower. In Mickey’s opinion, phrags are the easiest slipper orchid to bloom. They can bloom sequentially for 6 months to 1 ½ years.

Phrags are very different from paphiopedilums. Of all the slippers, phrags are the most terrestrial. All slippers like their roots “wet but not soggy”, but phrags have the highest tolerance for wetness. You can get away with growing most phrags in standing water. P. bessiae and its hybrids are sensitive to wet feet, but most phrags enjoy being moist all the time. Many growers keep their potted phrags in a saucer of water. Otherwise, you want to check the potting mixture for moisture like you would any potted plant. As soon as it begins to dry out, hydrate the phrag thoroughly; typically every other day or so.

They may not be sensitive to the quantity but they are picky on quality. Every successful phrag grower I have spoken to swears that rain water is the secret. Their famous sensitivity to water quality is likely due to their dependence on mycorrhizal fungi (which perish in the chemical-laden water supply most of us have access to). This is the opinion of expert phragmipedium grower, Gary Murza.

Paph. (Via Victoria x Spring Free) x spicerianum grown by Barb Murza

Paph. (Via Victoria x Spring Free) x spicerianum grown by Barb Murza

PAPHIOPEDILUMS
From Paphos = a city in Cyprus, a place sacred to Aphrodite (Venus), Greek Pedilon = “sandal”, thus “Venus slipper”.

These are native to Southeast Asia and the South Pacific. Paphiopedilums are widely hybridized and common in orchid collections. Many adapt well to the southern U.S. The bulk of Mickey’s talk focused on this genera. He brought in examples of each subgenus for us to see and touch.

General Culture:

Media – 2 parts coconut or bark : 1 part charcoal : 1 part perlite. Mickey does not like lava rock because they accumulate salts. Paphs and phrags can be grown in the same media. Paphs really don’t like acid media. Be sure to repot when the media begins to break down.

Water – Never let them dry out completely. Use room temperature water. Do not use softened water. Potting media should stay moist but not wet. Most paphs like to be watered every other day. Paphs do not like water on their leaves (in South Florida. In California you would not need to worry about this). If you get water on their leaf axis it can easily cause fungus and rot. To remedy this you can grow in moss to limit the frequency of watering and/or hydrate them by soaking just the roots in water rather than spraying with a hose or watering from overhead.

Food – Paphs like to eat frequently. You can feed a dilute amount at every watering. Simply add a little food to the water and allow roots to soak. Flush with plain water every 4th watering. Alternately, feed weakly weekly, flushing with plain water 4-6 weeks.

Light – 800-1,000 foot candles. 70% shade (shadow east – too much light). Leaves should feel cool to the touch. Most paphs like early morning sun, though they thrive in all day filtered light. If they are in a place where the phalaenopsis have dark green leaves, it is too shady. As with all plants, the higher the light exposure, the more food and water required for the plant to keep up.

Humidity – 70% humidity is ideal. Use a humidity tray, fine mist several times a day, or use a humidifier.

Temperature range – 55°-85° is the ideal temperature range for most paphs.

Air Movement – moist, vigorous air movement reduces chance of disease.

New growth on a healthy plant will mature and bloom within 9 months.

At tonight’s meeting, the winning orchid was Paph. (Via Victoria x Spring Free) x spicerianum, expertly grown by Barb Murza. Barb says this Paph. spicerianum crosses are reliable bloomers and easy to grow.

Subgenus: Barbatum/Sigmatopetalum
Species include: Paph. venustum, wardii, purpuratum, argus, appletonianum,barbatum, callosum, lawrenceanum, mastersianum, sukhakulii, superbiens, venustum, viniferum and wolterianum.

Widespread through Southern China, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Known as maudiae-type paphs due to their mottled leaves. Warm monsoon (monsoon summer/dry cool winter) growers ideally suited to South Florida. Prefer shade (500-1500 foot-candles).

Subgenus: Paphiopedilum/Insigne
Species include: Paph. coccineum, hirsutissimum, spicerianum, barbigerum. boxalii, charlesworthii, druryi, exul, fairrieanum, gratrixianum, helenae, henryanum, herman, insigne, and trigrinum.

Native to Southen China, Bhutan, Laos, Burma, and Thailand. Most are cool monsoon growers (require cooler autumn temperatures to bloom). Distinguished by green, strap-shaped leaves. Bloom in winter. Prefer bright light (high phalaenopsis, low cattleya light).

Subgenus: Brachypetalum
Species include: Paph. bellatulum, longipetalum, niveum, bellatulum, concolor, godefroyae, xgreyi, niveum and thaianum.

Native to tropical China, Vietnam, Burma, Laos, and Thailand. Distinguished by their tessellated and succulent, water-filled leaves. They do not need as much water as other paphs. According to Mickey they come to flower quickly. They like more food and particularly do not like water on their leaf axis. These slippers can tolerate temperatures into the 40’s.  They enjoy the monsoon summer/dry cool winter seasons of South Florida. Cool dry winter + calcium supplements for summer blooming. Shade. Good air movement.

Subgenus: Parvisepalum
Species include: Paph. armeniacum,  delenatii,  malipoense,  micranthum, vietnamense, emersonii, hangianum, jackii, and malipoense.

Native to tropical China and Vietnam. They are distinguished by tessellated thin leaves and flowers with large, inflated pouches. Cool dry winter + calcium supplements for summer blooming. Shade. Good air movement.

 

Strap-Leaf Multiflorals – Distinguished by their ability to sustain multiple blooms. They like good air flow. Must have a 6-8 week cool period (50-60°F) to bloom. Mickey considers them difficult to kill and they are fast growers. The leaves should be an apple green color for optimal flowering. This subgroup prefers more light; most tolerating cattleya-level light (2000-3000 ft-candles). They prefer to grow warmer and shouldn’t be exposed to temperatures below 50°-55°. They enjoy the monsoon summer/dry winter seasons of South Florida.

Subgenus: Cochlopetalum
Species include: Paph. glaucophyllum, liemianum, moquetteanum, primulinum, victoria-mariae and victoria-regina (syn. chamberlainianum).

Native to Indonesia. Sequential bloomer. Mickey states that cochlopetalums are great for growers in Southwest Florida. Again, they are warm weather monsoon growers.

Subgenus: Coryopetalum
Species include: Paph. adductum, gigantifolium, intaniae, kolopakingii, ooii, philippinense, platyphyllum, praestans (syn. glanduliferum), randsii, rothschildianum, sanderianum, stonei and supardii.

Simultaneous bloomer.

Subgenus: Pardalopetalum/Polyantha
Species include: Paph. parishii, stonei, lowii, dianthum, haynaldianum,  lynniae,  and richardianum.

Primarily found in Indonesia, the Philippines, and Papua New Guinea. Simultaneous bloomer. These enjoy cooler, drier weather.

DO PAPHIOPEDILUMS LIKE LIME?
For a mixed collection use: balanced fertilizer, 40ppm calcium, 20-30ppm magnesium, and pH 6.2-6.6.
For Calcareous Species add a top dressing of crushed oyster shell, pelletized limestone, or dolomitic limestone chunks.
Calcareous Species include: armeniacum, malipoense, microanthum, emersonii, bellatulum, concolor, godefroyae, niveum, philippinense, sanderianum, stonei, glanduliferum, wilhelminae, supardii, dianthum, glaucophyllum, liemianum, primulinium, Victoria-regime, hirsuitissmum, charlesworthii, insigne, barbigerum, exul, spicerianum, fairrieanum.

MISCELLANEOUS ORCHID TIPS

  • Oncidiums growing too dark in winter won’t bloom in Spring. This is why many growers can only get their oncidiums to bloom once a year in the Fall.
  • Ring stakes allow light to hit new growth and increase blooming in cattleyas.
  • Bare root orchids love to be watered daily, and by watered Mickey means fully hydrated of course, to mimic the nearly constant misting many of them receive in their natural habitats. Professional growers typically mist their bare root orchids for 45 min twice daily and feed twice a week. Hobbyists can set up a sprinkler on a timer for a similar effect. For those of us with other responsibilities Mickey recommends at least once a week fully hydrating your orchids, either soaking in water or watering them 3 times a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner). This particularly applies to vandas. Palm tree vandas are food and water-deprived vandas.

REFERENCE
Blue Pagoda

http://slipperorchids.info/paphdatasheets/parvisepalum/

https://personal.uwaterloo.ca/jerry/orchids/cnotes/paph2.html

http://www.cloudsorchids.com/culture/slippers.htm

http://slipperorchids.info/paphspecies/index.html

https://www.lookingafterorchids.com/useful-articles/lady-slipper-orchid-care/

http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27013

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By |2019-03-26T14:29:31+00:00January 23rd, 2017|Plants|Comments Off on Mickey Carnell on Lady Slipper Orchid Culture

Martin Motes on Growing Orchids in South Florida

notes recorded by Lia Andrews from Martin Motes’ video:

There are seemingly endless varieties of orchids. In fact, one in 10 flowers in the world is an orchid. Florida orchid growing is unique and requires special considerations for culture. It has a seasonal monsoon climate and is ideal for orchids native to mid-low elevation in the tropics.

DRYING OUT
Al conditions that make orchids grow are the same conditions that support their pests. To survive orchids evolved into a type of specialized cactus. They like to be fully wet, then dry out completely before wet again. This strategy works against the mortal enemy of orchids: fungus. Fungus requires constant wetness and do not survive the drying out periods. How much do orchids need to dry out?:

  • Cattleyas and dendrobiums like to dry out hard. They like to get bone dry. “If you think it needs to be watered, wait a day.”
  • Paphiopedilums and phalaenopsis like to maintain a little wetness. Water when just starting to dry out. “If you think it needs to be watered, you should have watered it yesterday.”
  • Vandaceous orchids are in between. “If you think it needs to be watered, water today.”
    • white roots = dry
    • green roots = wet
  • Consideration must also be made for potting media, pots, mounted orchids, etc. Most mounted or free hanging orchids often need daily watering in summer and every few days in winter.  While the same orchids potted require less frequent watering.

Proper watering is the key to success with orchids, especially in Florida. (We discussed water quality in a previous blog post). Never water orchids unless they need it. It is better to err on the side of being too dry than too wet. Over-watered orchids are very prone to diseases. Unfortunately, there is no absolute rule. You must become a keen observer of weather, seasonal changes, and microclimates within your growing space. You must also get to know each orchid in your collection.

For potted orchids, Motes recommends lifting your orchids daily to get a feel for the weight of a wet versus dry plant. When the pot becomes as light as possible, water it. Remember that media that is very dry repels water, and this also happens to  the orchid’s roots. Once the orchid has dried out you will need to fully saturate it with water to get it properly hydrated. Motes recommends watering twice. Begin at one end of your collection, watering until you see runoff. When you reach the end, start over at the beginning of your collection and re-water until you see runoff.

FERTILIZER
Fertilizer is applied exactly the same way as you water; twice, saturating the roots/media each time. Time release fertilizers offer low maintenance but you need to be careful to get one that withstands the relentless summer rains of Florida. Time release fertilizer are only as good as the polymers holding it in. Motes recommends Dynamite from Home Depot or a low phosphorus one marketed for avocados and citrus from Lowes.

Common consensus has moved away from 20-20-20 fertilizer for orchids; though you can use this a little in the spring. Studies at Michigan State* show that orchids grow and flower best with fertilizers low in phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium. On the other hand, orchids need more calcium (naturally high in Florida water) and magnesium. (American fertilizers do not list these minerals, while in Europe magnesium is the 4th number listed.)

You can use Peter’s Excell 15-5-15, or one of the many orchid fertilizers based on the Michigan State studies, like this one from RePotMe.com. Avoid bloom boosters which are high in phosphorus.

When temperatures drop to the 60°s F  and  below, we often observe the leaves get red spots due to cold exposure. This is in fact the plant experiencing magnesium deficiency symptoms. If you see these red spots, you can use 1 tbsp. of Epsom salts per 1 gallon of water every week until the leaves regain their normal color.

POTS

  • Plastic
    • growers love them = they are cheap, don’t break, and light. The downside in Florida is they hold too much moisture.
  • Clay
    • transpires out moisture so that it fully dries itself and the contents of the pot out. It is also cooler.

Besides the extra consideration for dryness, orchids are a unique plant in another way. In most plants, the bigger the pot, the happier the plant. Because orchids need to fully dry out, you want to pot them in the smallest pot possible, then repot them every 1-2 years in the next pot size up. Keep in mind that a 6″ pot is actually seven times the volume of a 3″ pot. (Society VP, Gary Murza, recommends repotting yearly in Florida due to the inevitable salt buildup that occurs here).

Whether you buy your orchids from big commercial grower like Home Depot or a boutique grower, if it is in a plastic pot repot it in a clay pot immediately. Orchids are now being mass produced creating vertical competition. Big commercial growers will grow their orchids in a 4″ pot then repot them in a 6″ right before putting them out for sale. It is good for marketing, but bad for the orchid.

The depth of the pot is also important. In a standard pot, height = width. In a bulb or azalea pot, 1/2 height = width; which is much better for the orchids. Fancy orchid pots are also an option, just remember that every once in a while you need to smash a pot in order to safely remove the orchid. (Perhaps save your fancy pots for bonsai).

A solid clay pot is better than a slotted clay pot because it sweats better. Also, many times when you buy an orchid it will have extra stuff like Styrofoam at the bottom for “drainage” and to make a regular pot function more like a bulb pot. This actually impedes drainage and is very bad for the orchid. Repot in a shallow pot like a bulb pot.

MEDIA
Growers who move to Florida from other areas quickly learn that media requirements are different here. The gold standard in Southwest Florida used to be tree fern. It lasts 4-5 years, but it is harvested from an endangered species. Motes uses a mixture of 50% charcoal and 50% coconut husk. Other choices are Aliflor (holds more water), solite, and charcoal. (I personally like the these 2 mixes from Broward Orchid Supply).

Many orchids we purchase are potted in sphagnum moss. This is the surest way to kill an orchid in Florida. Sphagnum moss only lasts about 1 year here until it begins to decompose, flattening and packing in water with no air, rotting the orchids’ roots. The moss is often 1 year old or more by the time the orchid is sold. Fern rock and bark, favorites up north, is also certain death in South Florida. (Special bark that can survive our weather is available locally).

Another solution is simply to mount orchids on wood, trees, rock, pots, or to hang them freely.

The video continues on to discuss light and air movement, two additional important considerations.

*The study found that 13-3-15 (for rainwater or reverse osmosis) and 19-4-23 (for well water) gave the best results. Read the full article in Orchids Magazine here.

By |2019-03-26T14:29:31+00:00September 10th, 2016|Plants|Comments Off on Martin Motes on Growing Orchids in South Florida

Growing Bare Root Orchids: An Organic Experiment

Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis hybrid

I admit I was a little sad to wake up this morning to one single (albeit beautiful) flowering orchid after we attended the Redlands Orchid Festival yesterday. She was a phalaenopsis hybrid that was too good a deal to pass up. After the Tamiami Orchid Show, Dr. Judith Andrews and I came home with a dozen flowering plants. This time we knew the plants we wanted and that we could get a lot more of them if we purchased bare root plants.

AeridesOdorata

Aerides odorata with new root growth and flower spike.

Bare root plants are usually found in bins at orchid shows for a steal compared to the price if they were potted. They look half dead and unappealing, but with a little TLC they spring back to life. The above Aerides was a bare root cutting I purchased 2 months ago from Robert Palmer Nursery. Even after being abused (I put her in high sun and burned her leaves) she has significant new root growth and a flower spike.

We went to the show with a plan: better plants, long term blooming, and more of them. The problem is, bare rooted plants don’t always thrive. I have already learned to repot every orchid I acquire. For phalaenopsis and paphiopediliums I use fine coconut fiber, fine orchid fir bark, stalite, and sponge rock. For cattleyas, oncidiums, and dendrobiums I use a mix of stalite, sponge rock, coconut chips & charcoal. I have nearly lost  several plants after believing vendors who say,”You don’t have to worry about repotting for 1-2 years.” That may be true in other climates, but in South Florida (or any wet climate) sphagnum moss or regular tree bark can turn orchid roots to mush in a matter of weeks. Orchid vendors pot their orchids to endure neglect and survive, not to thrive in home orchid collections.

Southwest Florida Orchid Society president Barb Murza advised us on how to treat bare root orchids. She explained that they have been through a lot of abuse. They have been shipped from other countries and jostled around. They endure cuts and broken roots leaving them wide open for fungal infections that can wipe them out. She recommends treatment with a systemic fungicide such as Aliete. Further, many successful growers soak any orchid they are repotting (bare root or established) and their growing media in a combination of fungicide, Super Thrive, and fertilizer.

We are growing many of our orchids as medicine so this is not an option. We substituted an organic neem oil-based 3-in-1 fungicide, miticide, and insecticide we use on our fruit trees. We added this to a gallon of water. We then added Super Thrive and the orchid food we are currently using. We soaked each orchid before we mounted or potted them, then we immersed the full pots in the solution after planting. Let’s see how it goes.

You wouldn’t know it by looking at these newly mounted/potted plants, but these are some of the showiest bloomers in the orchid world:

DendrobiumsMounted

Dendrobium chrysanthum, Dendrobium officinale, and Rhynchorides bangkok sunset.

DChrysotoxum

Dendrobium chrysotoxum

Cattleya

Large bloom cattleya hybrid.

Dendrobiums

D. chryseum, D. farmeri, D. hancockii, D. lawesii, D. hancockii, D. fimbriatum, D. thyrsiflorum.

DAphyllum

Dendrobium aphyllum

BroughtoniaNegrilensis

Broughtonia negrilensis

 

By |2019-03-26T14:29:32+00:00May 15th, 2016|Chinese Herbs, Dr. Judith, Feng Shui, Nurturing Life Project, Plants, Uncategorized|Comments Off on Growing Bare Root Orchids: An Organic Experiment

DIY Worm Composting Bin to Rehab Your Garden

It only makes sense that the first video we shot for the Nurturing Life Project would be on healthy soil. Healthy soil is directly tied to our Jing (vitality). Plants grown in soil teeming with healthy microorganisms thrive. They pass on this vitality to us in the fruits, vegetables, and grains they produce. Thus, we cannot have health if we do not have healthy soil.
This was particularly important to my mom, Dr. Judith Andrews, and I since we are remodeling an old home with an abandoned yard (read more about the renovations on Judith’s blog). Plants in southwest Florida have to be resilient to weather the onslaught of insects if you don’t want to rely on toxic substances. In our quest to improve the health of our soil and plants, we came across Rachel Singletary of Pine Forest Fruit and Flower Farm. Known as the “Worm Lady”, Rachel uses worm castings to replenish the natural ecosystem of the soil and help her plants thrive without the use of a single chemical or processed fertilizer. Castings work similarly as probiotics do in our own bodies. Rachel explains that while composting is hit and miss in Florida, worm bins are easy to manage in the climate here. This solution is cheap (about $40 to start a bin), environmentally supportive, and effective.
She put our yard on a regimen of monthly application of castings until the plants look visibly healthier.
For more info on Rachel’s worm bins, native plants, or butterfly gardening please see: Florida Native Plant Seeds

By |2019-03-26T14:29:33+00:00December 14th, 2015|Nurturing Life Project, Plants, Weekly Show|Comments Off on DIY Worm Composting Bin to Rehab Your Garden

How to Transform Unwanted Ficus into Beautiful Bonsai

One of the many projects we have is to replace a failing hedge of ficus trees. Ficus trees can be a nuisance; destroying pipes and foundation. However, I don’t like to kill things, so I decided to re-purpose them into bonsai; Judith’s and my new hobby.

Ficus is supposed to be a great bonsai subject for beginners in warmer climates especially. It can take tremendous abuse and grows rigorously. We brought a few trees to a mentoring session associated with the Bonsai Society of Southwest Florida, hosted by Ernie and Dorothy. Watch as they mentor me on how to begin transforming unwanted, unhealthy ficus into beautiful bonsai.

By |2015-12-15T16:02:30+00:00December 14th, 2015|Nurturing Life Project, Plants|Comments Off on How to Transform Unwanted Ficus into Beautiful Bonsai

The Art of Penjing; the Daoist Origins of Bonsai

Some of my most incredible memories of China, and there are many, are of the gardens. This last trip seeing the gardens of Suzhou and Hangzhou were beyond words. Ancient bonsai, exquisite flowers, rock sculptures, and tranquil water features. In fact, every tree in that country seems perfectly trained into a work of art. Chinese gardeners apply the same rules of balance to their standard trees and shrubs as they do to their miniaturized trees. This fall Judith and I finally resolved to take a bonsai class to start imitating what we observed in our own gardens.

The class we took recently at Wigert’s Bonsai in Fort Myers, FL is known as tropical bonsai. (The unique growth habits of tropical trees have inspired new styles and compositions.) When selecting my tree, two small Fukien Tea trees jumped out at me. One, more rounded with tiny leaves and ample flowers felt Yin to me, while the other was more angular with larger leaves thus exuding Yang energy. I felt they wanted to be together in a composition; a dance between Yin and Yang at the center of all creation. This balance between these primal forces was also at the heart of the book I am currently working on on Daoist sexuality. In working with them every day, the trees would teach me this dance. Our teacher was not impressed, as this did not conform to traditional Japanese standards, but he allowed it.

The instruction was sound and easy to apply, but I felt stifled by the seriousness in the room. Judith was unaffected. An artist in all mediums (sewing, upholstry, cooking, decorating, gardening); she took to bonsai immediately. She selected an ordinary little Tiger Bark ficus and set about transforming it into an adorable tree. I followed her lead and just focused on my work.

Penjing; the Daoist Origins of Bonsai

Penjing (盆景, pén jǐng, “tray scenery”) is an ancient Daoist art of sculpting rock and training trees into miniaturized landscapes. (The principles of this art are applied to life-size gardens and landscapes as well.) When we visited Mantak Chia’s healing center in Thailand, he had hundreds of bonsai trees on display. He explained that the little trees are so valued by Daoists because they concentrate Qi.

Penjing is a meditation. The gardner/artist works with natural materials (plants, rocks, earth, water) to create a vision. It can replicate a sacred site, invoke a specific element, or invoke a state of mind being cultivated. Every day the artist tends to his/her art, adding more intention. This is what makes penjing so magical. The observer feels a certain mood or energy emanating from the scuture, built upon many years of daily intention.

The art of penjing spread throughout Asia, and most famously to Japan in the 6th century, where it became known as bonsai. Bonsai is the Japanese pronunciation of 盆栽, meaning potted plant and pronouced “pén zāi” in Chinese. In its Japanese interpretation it has become more formal and precise. Less a free form meditation, it is the practice of perfection. Traditional bonsai is limited to trees, and does not include rock sculptures or figurines. More recently, bonsai has been re-interpreted again as it becomes popularized around the world. The term “bonsai” in common usage around the world is not limited to the Japanese interpretation, but is an umbrella term for a wider art in constant transformation.

Step 1 – Choose Your Trees

The top tree had a natural Yin quality to me, while the bottom tree displayed a Yang quality. In their natural disheveled state they were quite adorable and had a happy, Fire quality. They seemed excited about the adventure.

Fukien Tea 2

Step 2 – Shape Your Tree

Shaping the tree is a continuous process. First, each leaf was trimmed back, called defoliation. This accomplishes a few things: a) it reduces leaf size, b) it balances the removal of roots, and c) it allows you to see a clear trunk and branch line. Defoliation is always done when the tree is first made into a bonsai and is repeated yearly, depending on the tree. Second, branches are trimmed to create the initial style. Third, every branch is wired and set. I could feel the constriction of the trees during the wiring process; not unlike when I first got my braces. I felt bad for my trees at this point.

Step 3 – Pot Your Tree in a Bonsai Pot

After shaping the top of the trees, I needed to do the same to the roots in order to place them in the little pot. This will stunt the growth of the trunk and roots in order to keep the tree small. The dirt is removed from the roots with a rake, then the roots are rinsed under water. If there is a large root ball it is trimmed back, along with excess smaller roots. (This process is called bare rooting and is typically only done once. Bonsai trees need to be repotted every 1-3 years but it is not so traumatic). Then the tree(s) is securely tied into the pot with wires. Special bonsai soil is added and mixed in with a chopstick. A little fertilizer is mixed in, then the potted tree is soaked in water with “super thrive” for 5 minutes.

The “Finished” Bonsai

The ordeal in becoming a bonsai is arduous for the plant and it must rest in the shade, untouched, for 2 weeks. It is checked daily for wetness by sticking a pencil or wooden chopstick into the soil. After this time it will be moved to its preferred light requirements.

The top picture is of my twin Yin and Yang Fukien Tea trees. The bottom is Judith’s Tiger Bark ficus bonsai.

Judith Andrews Bonsai

By |2019-03-26T14:29:33+00:00October 21st, 2015|Plants|Comments Off on The Art of Penjing; the Daoist Origins of Bonsai

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